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On a recent trip to The Barbican (a multi-art and exhibition hall in London). I went to Future Beauty - 30 years of Japanese Fashion with my college, it was really inspiring and exciting to see as these garments have never been shown in England before.
The exhibition was held on two floors with separate sections for different designers, collections and times of fashion. When entering the first section of the exhibition 'In Praise of Shadows' (1980's) was the first collection of garments, mostly black, more aesthetic and more concealing than Western Fashion at this time. Western fashion styles were based on figure hugging, brightly coloured and silhouetted clothing and the Japanese fashion is very black and current body obsessions overlooked by covering up the figure and adding constructivism to create astonishing garments. A lot of Western designers took inspiration from these Japanese designers such as: Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto.
Junya Watanabe, Autumn/Winter 2009-2010.
Watanabe was known in the fashion world as the 'techno couturier' and trained under the influence of Kawakubo a lot of reflections from his work come out into Watanabe's garments.
You would think that Japanese Fashion to be showing elements of traditional Japanese Fashion, but these designers have all showed use of constructivism in their work. Using draping, folding, pleating and origami techniques throughout there collections.
Watanabe showed me a lot of versatility throughout the exhibition over the years. From his concepts of cut and styling of fabric in his tailored trouser suits in Spring/Summer 2010.....
..... to his inspiring golden brown nylon net dress Autumn/Winter 1993-4
This was one of my favorite piece throughout the whole exhibition and proves that Junya Watanabe keeps his renowned status for creating unusual constructed garments.
He also has added traditional Japanese media into modern concepts of design in his amazingly detailed "Techno Couture" Collection Autumn/Winter 2000.
Origami paper folding techniques are carefully constructed into garments.....
Hiroaki Ohya.
...Tao Kurihara and his collection of garments had no need for sewing, just the use of twisting and knotting technique, similar to the traditional macrame textile construction....
Autumn/Winter 2006/7
... Rei Kawakubo with her Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body collection S/S 1997. Her garments feature extreme padding to extenuate the hips, shoulders, areas of the body and sculpting the rest....
...Yohji Yamamoto with his ultra feminine S/S 1999...
...Jun Takahashi and his influences from street fashion, manga art, bold colours and diversity in his 'Melting pot' collection 2000 ....
Japanese Fashion has influenced Western approaches to fashion, I'm sure you all known of Gwen Stefani and her cute Harajuki girl backing dancers they have been influenced by Japanese styles...
Japan is well known for being ahead of fashion and are amazing when mixing colours, different techniques and materials in garments. Issey Miyake was another designer that really stuck out for me at the exhibition, especially his Pleats Collection. He uses a series of intricately folded polygons, extensive design techniques and innovating outcomes....
Issey Miyake truely stole the show for me and is also internationally recognised for his work.
Overall my trip to 30 years of future fashion at the Barbicain was extremely insight full and inspiring. I will now be looking to use constructive techniques and Japanese approaches to my designs. I would really recommend viewing this exhibition if your ever in London.
